News & Updates

Climb in Potrero Chico Mexico over Thanksgiving week

High Mountain Adventure Guides will be in Potrero Chico Mexico through the Thanksgiving Holiday for Fun, Sunny Rockclimbing.

We will be Guiding there from Nov. 20-28, email now and reserve your dates.
High Mountain Adventure Guides has different packages available.
1. 1/2 package, only Daily Guides cost-HMAG will give suggestions with logistics, rooms and places to eat, but it’s up to you while you are climbing with HMAG. Cost $250 per person with Double booking.
2.Full Package includes Guides cost, room, logistics and partial meals. Relax and let HMAG take care of everything.
Call for all inclusive prices
Confirm Dates and Prices with High Mountain Adventure Guides
PO Box 2303 Telluride Colorado 81435
Contact- Eric Larson- ekkalarson@yahoo.com
The deck at La Pasada

Off To Ama Dablam October 2011

High Mountain Adventure Guides are heading for another trip to Nepal.
This will be a small light trip to Ama Dablam. We will be acclimitizing on some smaller peaks in the Khumbu then heading up, up and up onto Ama Dablam in the end of October. Look for some up dates and photos from our trip soon.
Granite climbing around Camp 2

High Mountain Adventure Guides
PO Box 2303 telluride Colorado 81435
Contact: Eric Larson- ekkalarson@yahoo.com

Haute Route – Chamonix to Zermatt- Ski Traverse

Haute Route – Chamonix to Zermatt- Ski Traverse

Come Join High Mountain Adventure Guides classic Haute Route ski tour.

For the skier with intermediate/ advance ability & good physical fitness, able to climb 3,000ft a day for 6-8 hours.

Day 1: A classic descent in Chamonix from the Aiguille du Midi down the Vallee Blanche. From Chamonix, we will ski the renowned Vallee Blanche and the Mer de Glace glacier. This day tour allows us to cover some basic techniques, go over equipment & stretch your legs to get over jet lag. That evening allows for last minute gear needs, shopping or sampling the cafes.Day 2: After breakfast, we will meet in Argentiere at the base of Grand Montet lift. The tram will deposit us up high on the ridge over looking the Argentiere Glacier. The first day of the our Haute Route traverse crosses the technical Col du Chardonnet, then up and over the Fenetre de Seleina were we enter Switzerland, onto the Trient Hut. A bigger day, but one of the most spectacular!Day 3: Depending on how the group feels we can climb to the top of and ski one on the many north facing 40*-50*couloirs descend down the Val d’Arpette to town of Champex. This quick morning allows us to linger in Champex before taking a bus to Verbier. Muti-lift ride through the ski areas deliveries us quickly to Mont Fort Hut. The Mont Fort hut is cozy place to relax that afternoon or more opportunities await up the ridge for a quick tour on world class extreme terrain.Day 4: From the Mont Fort, we will ascend to the col de la chaux and out of the Verbier ski area boundary. If conditions are favorable, we will continue up on to the summit of the Rosa Blanche before making a long ski descent to the Prafleuri Hut. There is some great terrain outside the hut where other ski tours will watch you ski a “Mini AK line” descending down to a apres ski scene.
Day 5: We depart early from the Prafleuri Hut for a morning of ski traversing along the shores of the Lac des Dix. From the lake we climb gradually up to the Dix Hut arriving by mid afternoon.Day 6: From the Dix hut we will skin up to the Col de la Serpantine (3500m) SouthEast to Col de Brenay (3639m) and summiting Pigne d’Arolla (3796m). Amazing views and classic ski descent down to the Vignettes Hut.Day 7: A long day will take us through three spectacular passes, the final col near the peak of Tete Blanche, with amazing views of the north face of the Matterhorn. We will finish with a long run down in the shadow of the Matterhorn, ending by ski through the resort down to village of Zermatt.Day 8: This day is for any weather delays that are unforeseen. If this day is unused option exists to ski the off-piste terrain around Zermatt & Breithorn or enjoy the culture of this beautiful town. Transfers back to Chamonix by train is easy, but please don’t book flights out of Geneva for this day.Haute Route Package Price for 2011

$2600 based on four people.
$2400 based on five people.

Price Includes:
IFMGA certified guide
All Transportation during tour (train, bus, taxi and lifts)
All group technical equipment (Beacon, Probe, Shovel & Harness)
1 nights hotel in Chamonix (double occupancy)
1 night hotel in Zermatt (double occupancy)
5 nights in mountain huts (dinner and breakfast included)
Luggage transfer from Chamonix to Zermatt

Price Does Not Include:
Airfare
Transportation to Chamonix from Airport, or departing from Zermatt
Meals in town
Lunches on tour
Beverages including alcohol
Rescue Insurance
Incidentals
Price

Custome trips are available, call or email for Itinerary & Prices.
Eric Larson- IFMGA
High Mountain Adventure Guides
ekkalarson@yahoo.com 970-708-9678

Breithorn 4165m

IFMGA status

IFMGA/ UIAGM

Achieved International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA) certification by completing the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) trainings & exams.
This goal has been part of my driving force, along with Kathleen’s support, for over 18 years. I started my AMGA training in 2005, medical & avalanche education/ experience in 1995 & guiding experience since 1993. This track has taken me around the world to the Himalayas, Thailand, South America, Antarctica, Alaska & all over the West.

Here are some fun photos through the years, Thanks.Low on Moose’s Tooth

Fun 5.10 on Maverick Buttress in the Desert.

Come join me in the mountains, I will be running some fun trips such as Ice climbing in the Sam Juans of Colorado, Haute route ski tour from Chamonix to Zermatt in April, Mont Blanc mountaineering courses in August & September, Rocktober desert climbing in Red Rock & Indian Creek next fall. Stay tuned for our website to go online.

Cho Oyu (26,906ft) summit 2003
Thanks,

Eric Larson
High Mountain Adventure Guides
IFMGA
ekkalarson@yahoo.com

Haute Route, April 10-18 2010


Haute Route, April 10-18 2010

Matterhorn views

Tracking up powder on the first day in the Valle de Blanche, Chamonix France

Does this explain enough?

High Mountain Adventure Guides at work or play?

Marching in line to the next powder stash.

Final steps to the Dix hut.

We called this the AK line, outside the Prafleuri Hut.

Mont Fort, Verbier resort.

More powder!!
A steep coulior just behind the Trient hut.

Steep belayed skiing to enter the Coulior.

High Mountain Adventure Guides will host a Haute Route, Chamonix to Zermatt tours April 2011. Contact High Mountain Adventure Guides at 970-708-9678 or ekkalarson@yahoo.com for more information on these tours.

Telluride Backcountry Guides New spring 2010

Telluride Backcountry Guides
New spring 2010



Several months ago, Telluride Ski and Golf applied for a permit with the US Forest Service to conduct commercial guide services in the backcountry areas of Bear Creek and Alta Lakes, which are adjacent to the ski area and accessible through USFS backcountry gates. We are pleased to announce that in the end of March we received a favorable decision from the US Forest Service to provide this service to the public.

We are now offering Telluride Backcountry Guides through our eco-tourism division which is called ECO-ADVENTURES, located in Mountain Village in the Franz Klammer breezeway. You can learn more or book a guide by calling 970-728-7300.

Telluride Backcountry Guides can now help you find the best terrain in the gigantic and beautiful upper basins of Bear Creek:

Some great tours can be had from the boundaries of the resort, such as San Joaquin Coulior, T-12 or over Silver Mtn. to Silver chute or “the Wire”.

I’m psyched that I, along with Telluride Ski Resort put together this program for you the pubic to enjoy. Contact me at Eco Adventures/ Telluride Backcountry Guides (above) or through my company High Mountain Adventure Guides, 970-708-9678 ekkalarson@yahoo.com.

El Potrero Chico climbing trip

Rocktober road trip redesigned

After finishing my AMGA Rock Exam Kat and I headed down to Mexico to climb some pristine Limestone for two weeks. El Potrero Chico features a paradise full of World class multipitch climbing ranging from 5.7- 5.13d. Dozens of 2000+ feet long routes are available including a large amount of intermediate grade(5.10 or less) with cool unique summits. El Potrero Chico is a world class limestone climbing destination outside Hildago three hours south of Laredo Texas. October was perfect weather, not to hot or cold. The area is on the edge of Sierra de San Miguel mountains which brings some great weather effects, cool breezes & sunshine. The mountains are oriented with canyons facing North and South with a dry river bed running through the center with West and East face walls. All the aspect you need for any weather.

2nd belay of Agua de Coco 5.10d


Our game plan was to use the guide book “The Whole Enchilada” and chase the starred routes, focusing on the 2 & 3 star multi pitch climbs. I’m more of a trad/ alpine climber but this places kept me psyched and pumped the whole trip. Some routes we did were Space boyz 5.10d 11 pitches ***, Snott Girlz 5.10d 7 pitches ***, Pancho Villa rides again 5.10c 5 pitches***,Treasures of Sierra Maudra 5.10c, Baked fresh Daily 5.10c, Gringo Disco 5.11, Jungle Mountaineering 5.10b and most of the routes in Virgin Canyon.

La Pasada pool side
We stayed at La Pasada, a great Hacienda walking distance to the crags. Our friends Mark & Maureen joined us and opted to camp on the property, we rented a small room for two weeks. At the end of the climbing day this pool became to only therapy for our swollen hands and feet.

The secret to climbing here, Carta Blanca beer and “The Whole Enchilada” guideThrough the Looking Glass 5.11, 3 pitches
This was our fun last route that went through a window in the spire.
Kat getting ready to rappel
El Potrero Chico is a easy place to travel and climb with your loved one, got to go!!!

Red Rocks AMGA Rock Guides Exam Oct. 09

RED ROCKS AMGA ROCK EXAM Oct. ’09
Epinephrine, 18 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade IV
Beginning of October I went down to Red Rocks, Nevada to take my final AMGA Rock Guide Exam. It was six days of intense guiding on routes from 1,000ft to 1,800ft. The goals of the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Exam are to assess climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards. The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the Rock Guide Certification Exam require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skill, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A heavier emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping/ pitching clients on longer routes.

Our First day was a surprise of movement skills in the Black Corridor area, with half pitch sport routes. We ended up lead climbing about 10 routes from 5.10 to my best onsight of the trip at 5.11b.

Upper face on Epi @ 5.9ish

Day Two was a combination of Ginger Cracks 5.9 930 ft. 8 pitches to Power Failure 5.10b 450 ft. 3 pitches. The climbing went really well with fast climbing and great guiding problems. The rappel went smoothly to bring us to the bottom of Power Failure. This route follows a same seam roughly along the Rap line. Some thin seams and tough smearing foot work got through the crux. The day went well except for starting out in the morning by poking a stick accidentally to my eye.

Ginger Cracks route
Day Three of the exam was to complete Epinephrine in Black Velvet Canyon. I split the guiding with another examiner, and I got the upper half and descent. The climbing is super fun and the “exam stress” was mellow, Thanks to our Examiner Doug Nedever. Fortunately, I had prepared by climbing this route only four days earlier with Mark Falander. We finished it in good time and Doug mentioned that we could have been one of the faster AMGA exam groups.

Triassic Sands 6 pitches, 5.10, 700 feet, Grade II

Day Four was Group Therapy 5.7, 7 pitches and Purblind Pillar 5.8 6 pitches. These routs had more guide problems such as traverses, run outs, belays and alot of short roping for the descent. It was a long day, but the cloud cover that day helped tremendously.

Day Five Olive Oil 5.7, 665ft.. Last day of guiding. This was with Art Mooney from Rumney areas N.H. It went quickly and we descended to the Parking lot by 1 p.m. Since everyone completed there routes fast that day the Examiners finished the debriefing that afternoon. The whole crew meet up that night to celebrate and BBQ to thank the Examiners Tom Hargis, Art Mooney, & Doug Nedever.

The exam went extremely well. Our scores were posted quickly and I passed in real good style. Now I’m an AMGA Certified Rock Guide…

September AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Course/ Aspirant Exam

Last week I finished my American Mountain Guide Association Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam. What is this you say, well it was my last course to finish to achieve my Aspirant Status as a certified International Mountain Guide through the IFMGA. It was twelve days long with testing from Rock Rescue, Crevasse Rescue, Ice climbing movement skills and three days of final exams.

Moving towards “hells highway” on Mt. Shuksen

The weather in the Cascades was great, usually this time of year it could be winter high in the Mountains.
Crevasse rescue
Minimal equipment is allowed for the rescue drills. This allows the Instructors to evaluate the candidates skill level. Here is a sample list for Crevasse Rescue -Time allowed:45 minutes

Equipment allowed:
1 Single rope
1 ice axe
1 ice hammer (a picket may be substituted for either the axe or hammer)
1 pack
2 ice screws
1 harness
1 helmet
2 cordelettes
5 locking carabiners
4 non-locking carabiners
3 slings (webbing or cord). Cords should be minimum diameter of 5.5mm Spectra or 6-7mm nylon.

The guide must be protected when within 2 meters of any crevasse edge. Candidates begin the exercise with the client tied in for glacier travel, standing on the glacier. The victim slides into the crevasse. The guide must arrest the fall with the victim in the crevasse suspended by the rope.The clock starts after the fall has been stopped.
1. The victim slides into the crevasse, the guide arrest the fall.
2. Build an anchor and transfer load to that anchor.
3. Rappel to victim. Safety back up required on guide.
4. Move victim into upright position with some form of chest harness.
5. Ascend out of crevasse.
6. Establish haul system. Minimum 5:1 mechanical advantage required.
7. Haul victim out of crevasse.

Next Adventure is my AMGA Rock Exam in Red Rocks Nevada October 8-14 and preparation the week before. Watch for the next posting, then of to El Potrero Chico Mexico for R&R with Kat.

Teton Guiding Season, Wyoming

The Teton season started off in June pretty snowy this year. Guiding the Grand Teton at this time was super exciting, with ice conditions on the Owen Spalding route feeling like a winter mixed climb. Climbing from the Meadows area was done by the center winter route on snow with alot of short roping up the steeper sections. The Upper Exum Ridge was 2/3rds dry with ice and snow all over above the friction pitch. July the weather had warmed quickly and melted most of the snow of in most places, but the Owen Spalding still has some ice slopes on it between the normal rockclimbing pitches.
The lower valley climbs have been dry and great climbing. I was busy on Guides Wall a bunch this season, what a classic chuck of clean rock climbing. Baxter’s Pinnicle has seen a lot of guide work going on.

Cowboy Jake on Baxters Pinnicle
-Note the Jeans-

Cowgirl Sara Campbell following the Summit pitch on Baxter’s.
Moving around part of the summit ridge.

Met some special people this season while guiding them on the Grand Teton
through Exum Mtn Guides. Thanks Again!!!
This was a great summit day in early September, but a little windy. It was so much fun climbing again with Ang Tsering Sherpa & Nima Dorja Sherpa & meeting new friends. Hopefully we can climb together again in the future.
Ang, Martin, & Nima on GT summit.
Good luck guys on Buruntse expedition this fall.
Brian Brechwald somewhere on the Owen Spalding.